Grooming and General Care

A regular grooming will keep your dog clean, free from para­sites and improve his general appearance. The grooming period will also enable you to keep a check on the condition of the dog's skin, coat, ears, eyes and teeth.

It's best to set a definite time for the grooming period. It doesn't have to be every day, but can be two or three times a week; certainly not less than once a week. Young puppies will need to be cleaned more often than older dogs, but as the pup matures, he can go on a semiweekly grooming routine.

Your pup may need to have his face cleaned daily, until he learns how to eat without sticking his face into his food. Use a damp cloth and wipe off the pup's mouth, muzzle and throat. If he has food on his ears, wash them too. Otherwise, the hair will become matted.

CARE OF THE HAIR

Brushing

Brushing and combing the dog should be made into a pleasant ritual. Select a place to do the grooming—a chair, table or bench will be satisfactory. Lift the dog onto the chair or table, talking to him, reassuring him that all is well. Let him know that he's in for a treat, not an ordeal. Let him sniff each tool; the comb, brush, nail clippers and scissors. It's very important that he learn to associate these tools with a pleasant experience. Handle the situation with tact and care, and the pup will look forward to it. Botch the job and you will be looking for the pup the next time you bring out the groom­ing tools.

When brushing the puppy, stroke the brush with and against the lie of the hair. This will help to loosen dead hair and stimulate the skin. Use a brush with the correct bristle length; short for medium- and short-haired dogs, long bristles for long-haired dogs. If you do any combing, use a fine comb for the short-haired dog and a comb with widely spaced teeth for the long-haired, medium-haired and wirehaired dogs. You can bring out the gloss in your dog's coat by polishing with a flannel cloth or one of the commercial grooming gloves. These grooming gloves are available in pet shops or pet supply stores.

Shedding

Under natural conditions, the dog sheds twice a year, in spring and fall. In spring shedding, the dog loses his heavy undercoat, and in fall he sheds dry, dead hair to make way for the winter coat. Dogs kept indoors all year may shed over a longer period of time. Overheated rooms, lack of exercise, illness and unbalanced diet—all of these will increase the amount of hair shed and the period over which it is shed. Too many baths can also contribute to excessive shedding.

You can help hurry the process during the periods of nat­ural shedding by vigorous brushing and massaging of the skin. If the dog is allowed outside, he will help with the job by rolling in the grass or brush. Do a good job of brushing and massaging, and there will be very little hair dropped in the house.

Matted hair

If you have a short- or smooth-haired dog, you will not have to worry about matted hair. But medium- and long­haired dogs do get tangled or matted hair from burs, paint, tar, chewing gum or other sticky or prickly objects. Dried food will also contribute to matted hair, and this is common in puppies and very old dogs. Matted hair is not only un­sightly, but it can pinch and irritate the dog.

If the hair is not too snarled, try combing out the mats. Do this gently. Hold the matted hair or tuft in one hand and gently comb it. If it is too tightly matted, you will have to cut it off. Use blunt-end scissors. Puppies are very quick and wriggly, so be careful not to jab your pup with the scissors. There's very little danger with blunt-end scissors. Gently pull the mat away from the dog's body, then carefully cut the hair between the skin and the mat or tuft. Avoid pulling or yank­ing the tuft; it hurts. Tar, paint, and other sticky or gummy matter can be softened with acetone (nail-polish remover) and then combed out.

Trimming

Just how much trimming your dog needs depends, of course, on his breed. The very short-haired breeds require no trimming, except an occasional shortening of the whiskers and eyebrows. Dogs with long, fine hair, such as Cocker Spaniels, Setters and Afghans, need to have the dead hair removed from time to time. The process of removing this dead hair is called stripping, and a special tool called a strip­per or dog dresser is used. You can get one of these gadgets in most pet supply stores. Or you can obtain one called the "duplex dog dresser" from the Durham-Enders Razor Com­pany, Mystic, Connecticut. This company also publishes charts for all breeds requiring trimming, except the Poodle. These charts are easy to follow and have the trimming process outlined in numbered steps.

Trimming and stripping are necessary to shape or balance the dog's coat. And this finishing must be done according to the breed standards. This is where the charts mentioned above will come in handy. If you don't want to tackle this job yourself, you can take the dog to a professional who specializes in your breed.

Terriers accumulate dead hair in their coats and will re­quire trimming. They, too, must be trimmed according to specifications. Long-haired breeds don't need trimming, but they do require plenty of brushing. You may, if you wish, trim the hair on and between the toes of your long-haired dog. Also trim the hair or feathering below the hocks on the hind legs. But check the breed standards before you start to do any snipping or trimming.

Poodles are in a class all by themselves when it comes to "beauty" treatments. There are various Poodle trims and styles, all requiring some experience if the dog is to look neat. Let a professional show you how to do the job. Watch how it is done and then, if you want, you can take care of any subsequent clips. Don't expect perfection on your first few attempts; it takes time and skill to turn out a perfectly groomed and trimmed Poodle. That's why the job costs so much. But if you spoil the first clip, you can let the hair grow back in again.

Summer or crew haircuts

Never clip a dog's hair close to the skin in summer. His hair acts as an insulator against heat and protects him against insects. When you give him a crewcut, you're exposing him to sunburn, the bites of flies and other insect pests. Also, the short hairs will prick and itch him every time he moves. You will not be doing him a favor by shaving him close, no matter how hot he looks. He'd rather be hot than put up with the misery that accompanies a crewcut.

TOENAILS

Overgrown or ingrown toenails can be very troublesome. The nails of young puppies grow rapidly, particularly if the puppy doesn't get outdoors where he can wear down the nails by digging. Consequently, you can expect sharp nails, capa­ble of putting holes in your stockings, trousers and skin. If neglected, the nails can become quite curved, snagging on clothes, rugs and other objects. Also, a pup can dislodge a nail when he tries to yank them out of a rug or cloth. Long nails make a dog slip-prone and interfere with his traction on smooth or glazed floors.

Approach the first nail-clipping session with caution. A young puppy may put up a fight and it will be safest to have someone restrain the dog while you do the nail trimming. Work quietly and easily, reassuring the pup as you work. Use blunt-end scissors or your own toenail clippers. Just snip off the transparent end of the nails; if you cut too much, you may cut into the "quick." The quick is sensitive and likely to bleed. If you should happen to cut into the quick and bleeding occurs, take a piece of gauze, clean cloth or tissue and press against the bleeding part. Keep the pup quiet and off his feet for a few minutes, until the blood has had time to clot. After clipping the nails, you can smooth the rough edges with an emery board.

Older dogs that live indoors most of their lives need to have their nails trimmed every two weeks or so. You can easily judge when the nails need trimming. Either the nails make a clatter when the dog walks on the floor or they touch the floor when he is standing up straight. If your dog has noisy nails or they are too long, a nail-trimming session is in order. Use regular human toenail clippers for small dogs. Larger breeds need special nail clippers available is most pet shops or pet supply stores.

Clip the older dog's nails carefully and watch out for the quick. Some dogs have dark nails and the quick is not readily seen. In this case, it is better to take off small bits, enough to stop any clattering or dragging on the floor. After clipping, file off any rough edges or snags. A routine nail clipping will cause the quicks to recede and they will remain short, just so long as you trim the nails about every two weeks.

Dewclaws or dog thumbs

On the inside of your puppy's legs, just above the paws, you will find some extra claws. These are the dewclaws. They are vestigial claws, once having served as thumbs during the early evolution of the dog. In young puppies, the dewclaws are attached rather loosely to the leg with cartilage. Later on, they become more firmly fastened to the leg bone. They are useless and should be removed.

Removing the dewclaws is a job for the veterinarian and should be done while the puppy is still young. The operation is a comparatively simple one. One breed, the Great Pyrenees, features the dewclaws as a breed standard, so if you have a Great Pyrenees and want to show it, leave the dewclaws on.

If you have an older dog with dewclaws, clip the dewclaw nails when you trim the other nails. Dewclaw nails also have quicks, so watch out for them. Occasionally, dewclaw nails grow backward and into the surrounding skin. When they do this, they become a source of pain and infection. Over­grown dewclaw nails may have to be surgically removed.

BATHING

You have already been cautioned about bathing the young pup. Avoid too many baths when he is grown up. There are still the same risks involved for the older puppy or dog. Bath­ing should be resorted to only when you cannot clean the dog by other means. But give those "other means" a fair trial before you decide to bathe the dog.

The most practical place to bathe the dog is in the bathtub. There are several good reasons for this choice: the bathtub is usually large enough for any dog, it is easily flushed and cleaned, and the bathroom floor is tiled, thus allowing for a quick mopping when water is splashed out of the tub (as it will be!). Place a rubber mat on the bottom of the tub so that the dog will not slip or fall. The dog doesn't care for the bath to begin with, and if he slips and gets upended, it will only make him more eager to jump out.

Use warm water, not hot. Test it with your elbows; if it's too hot for you, it's too hot for the dog. Put in enough water to reach the dog's stomach. Next, gradually wet the dog all over, either by cupping it on him with your hands or pour­ing with a pot. Protect his eyes with Vaseline or eye ointment. Soap will sting his eyes and, unlike you, he can't reach for a towel. Castile or Dial soap are mild and will not harm the dog's skin or coat. Coconut-oil shampoos are also satisfactory. Work up a foamy lather all over his body, avoiding his eyes and mouth, then rinse with clean warm water. Make sure that no suds stay on him; dried suds can cause itching and possibly dandruff later on.

After you've rinsed the soap off him, lift the dog out of the tub onto some newspapers. Unless you want to be mop­ping the floor and bathroom fixtures, quickly envelop him in a large towel. Give him a brisk rubbing with the towel, paying attention to his chest and undercoat. If it is winter, keep him indoors for at least three or four hours. In summer, he can go outside, providing it is a clear and sunny day.

Fleas, lice and ticks

Full instructions on the control of these pests are given in Chapter 15. However, you can use the dog's bath to get rid of fleas, lice and ticks. A commercial "dip" added to the bath will control these parasites. Follow directions explicitly. Most of the commercial "dips" are standardized and contain lindane, chlordane, rotenone or pyrethrum, all of which are nontoxic when used as directed.

EARS

Your dog's ears should be an important checkpoint during the grooming period, or more often if the dog is running loose. Long-eared dogs have more trouble with their ears than the short-eared varieties. Look for dirt, cuts, scratches, swellings, parasites or discharge. (See Chapter 13 for symp­toms o£ serious ear troubles)

Most of the time, you will find that your dog's ears just need to be cleaned. With care, you can do the job. Remem­ber, dogs are very sensitive about having their ears touched. Until your dog gets used to having his ears cleaned, it's best to have someone restrain him. Lift the dog onto a table or bench and have him sit. While it is best not to make a large production out of the ear-cleaning project, it is wise to take some precautions. Put an emergency muzzle on the dog. (See illustrations 1 to 4) Next, have your assistant stand opposite you at the table or bench. Instruct him to put one hand under the dog's jaw and around his neck. The other hand is to be placed on the dog's rear end, forcing him to stay in a sitting position. (See illustration 5) Now you can begin to clean the dog's ears.

Place a few drops of light mineral or sesame oil on a cotton swab. Carefully wipe off any dirt or foreign matter from the ridges and crevices in the ear. Clean only as far down as you can see without stretching the ear tissue. Avoid poking or jabbing the cotton swab. When the swabs become soiled, change them. If you come across dried blood, scabs or a thick discharge, clean the ear, apply mineral or sesame oil and watch the ear for a day or two. If the condition persists, con­sult your veterinarian. (See Chapter 13)

EYES

When all is well, your puppy's eyes will be clear and bright, free from discharge and inflammation. But his eyes are vul­nerable and he can easily get something in his eye that will cause him to weep or have reddened eyes. Minor colds will also affect the eyes, as will the more serious diseases.

If the dog has something in his eye, you can remove it by rolling the corner of a clean handkerchief, and after lifting up the eyelid, flicking out the object. You'll need to have someone restrain the dog while you do this. When you have the object out, bathe the eye with a boric-acid solution. Do not apply boric-acid powder to the eye or surrounding areas. Boric-acid powder contains boron, which is an internal poi­son. Puppies and older dogs can become seriously ill or possibly fatally poisoned if they ingest boric acid. Boric acid has been used to help alleviate the tear stains common on white-haired breeds, such as the Maltese, Sealyham and Dandie Dinmont. However, cases of death following the ingestion of boric-acid powder have been reported. In solu­tion, boric acid is relatively safe.

After bathing the eyes, you can apply an eye ointment such as mercuric oxide or butyne sulfate. These usually come in small tubes. Squeeze a small amount of the ointment into the corner of the eye, pull down the lid and then let the dog blink. When he blinks, he will distribute the ointment around the eye.

At this point it is apropos to state a general rule for treat­ing your dog. It is one that should be followed throughout his life. When you are in doubt as to the severity of a condi­tion or injury—or when what at first appears to be a minor condition or injury persists for more than a few days—seek professional advice. (See Chapter 13)

TEETH

Under normal conditions, your dog's teeth should not need much attention until he is a year old. However, it will not be amiss to glance at his teeth whenever you groom him. You might turn up a potentially troublesome condition.

The puppy is born without any teeth and begins to cut his first teeth when he is about three to four weeks of age. When he is 6 or 7 weeks old, he will have a full set of tem­porary or milk teeth. When they are all in, the pup will have 32 temporary or milk teeth. These temporary teeth are satis factory for the pup at this stage of his life. He can chew and gnaw objects that are not too hard, but he lacks the tooth strength and jaw power of the older dog. His milk teeth can be broken if subjected to a strain. So resist the temptation to lift him up by letting him grab hold of the leash or a stick. He'll enjoy this roughhousing, but he may end up with a broken tooth.

About the fourth or fifth month, the pup's gums will become swollen and inflamed. His milk teeth loosen and fall out of their own accord, and the second or permanent teeth appear. Now, your puppy may not whine or howl while he is cutting his second teeth, but you can be sure that the process bothers him. He may have a sore mouth, go off his feed, vomit and take on a woeful expression. His swollen gums make him want to chew and gnaw things, and he may forget his training and grab your shoe or other forbidden objects. Give him a shinbone or knucklebone to gnaw on; this will satisfy his craving to gnaw and will also help mas­sage his gums.

Occasionally, a milk tooth fails to yield the right of way to an upsurging permanent tooth. The result is that the new tooth may be shunted aside. When this occurs, the milk tooth should be extracted to allow for the normal growth of the permanent tooth. This is best done by the veterinarian, who has all the tools for the job.

Tartar begins to form on the dog's teeth after a year. The molars are mostly affected. Feeding him hard biscuits or an occasional knucklebone or shinbone will help keep tartar from forming on the teeth. Heavy deposits of tartar cause mouth odors and will have to be scraped off by a veterinarian.

EAR CROPPING AND TAIL DOCKING

You may have purchased a puppy of a breed that requires ear cropping and tail docking as show standards. Boxers, Doberman Pinschers, and Great Danes are among the breeds requiring cropping or docking or both. Docking and crop­ping are relatively minor operations performed under an­esthesia, usually when the pup is 6 to 8 weeks old.

Most kennel operators specializing in the breeds requir­ing cropping or docking usually have the work done before selling the pups. There are some, however, who consider cropping and docking the new owner's responsibility. If you get a pup that needs cropping and docking, and you decide to have the work done, don't delay; the earlier the better. Ear cropping and tail docking are against the law in some states, so be sure to check the legality of these operations in your state.

The chances are your puppy will have some off-days, times when he will not feel good. When he does, you should be able to recognize these off-days and be prepared to help him.

A normal, healthy puppy is amiable and happy. He's re­sponsive and eager to please you. He'll run, play and romp at the drop of the proverbial hat. His eyes are clear, bright, and free from inflammation, and his nose clean and moist. (A dry hot nose, however, does not mean he is ill.) The pup will "talk" to you with barks or yelps or transmit his exuber­ance in sign language with expressive tail-wags. He'll eat his food with pleasure, often bolting it down with gusto, and drink moderate amounts of water. His bowel movements will be regular and well formed (most of the prepared dog meals will contribute to large, bulky bowel movements); he'll have a bowel movement at least three times a day and perhaps more, depending on the number of feedings and type of food. In short, the healthy puppy is a bundle of energy and mischief.

But when he has an off-day, there is a drastic change. He gets a woeful expression. He'll lack pep, become listless, sluggish, and lose his usual eagerness for fun and adventure. He may refuse to eat, or just pick at his food. His need for water may be increased, and he'll have an unusual thirst, drinking more than his customary amount. He may have fre­quent bowel movements, possibly watery or bloody with a foul odor. Or he may be constipated. He may also vomit or gag.

Your puppy's eyes are a very good indicator of his general health. When ill, his eyes may be inflamed, weeping or dis­charging a thick matter. His nose may be plugged with a thick discharge or just "run." Finally, a check of his tempera­ture may show that it is above or below the normal range of 101° to l020 Fahrenheit.

EXAMINING THE PUPPY

When the puppy is not feeling well, he will not be his old cooperative self. Talk to him and reassure him. If he is snappy put on an emergency muzzle. His snappiness and irritability should not be taken personally or mean that you've got a dog that "bites the hand that feeds him." The pup may have an injury or tenderness in a spot and when you accidentally touch him there, he does what is natural for him—yelps or snaps.

First, walk the puppy slowly to see if he is lame. Next, place him carefully on a table or bench and examine him all over. Look for cuts, wounds, injuries, lumps, parasites or signs of disease. Keep reassuring him and work quietly and gently.

TAKING THE DOG'S TEMPERATURE

The dog's normal temperature range is 101 ° to 1020 F. It may go above or below this range, depending on what is wrong with him. Use an ordinary human rectal thermometer. Dip the bulb end in Vaseline or light mineral oil (baby oil will do), and gently insert it into the pup's rectum about one or two inches. (See illustration 6) Hold the thermometer there for at least three minutes. Remove it, clean it on some absorbent cotton and take the reading.

The grooming and general checkup period will contribute considerable to the health and well-being of your puppy. It should not be one of those hurry-up-and-get-it-over-with-quickly affairs; but a careful and thorough cleaning and examination. You will be much better off setting a semi- or twice-weekly grooming period than in starting out with the resolve to do it daily and then not getting around to it. Remember, the old adage—"An ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure"—still holds true.

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