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Dog Whisperer Home

Author’s Note

01. Instincts
02. Selecting Your Dog
03. New Puppy
04. Dog Nutrition
05. Grooming
06. Basic Training
07. City Dog
08. Country Dog
09. Problem Dogs
10. Dog Law
11. Dog’s Body
12. Dog Diseases
13. Ailments
14. Internal Parasites
15. Fleas + Lice
16. Skin Conditions
17. First Aid
18. Sick Dog
19. Mating
20. Newborn Pups
21. Aging Dog

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The Suburban and Country Dog

THE SUBURBAN DOG

Suburbia (called "disturbia" by its critics) is a land of gracious living. Thousands of ranch and split-level houses are set on quarter- and half-acre plots. Communities have materialized in an astonishingly short time on former pasture land or farm wasteland. People who once lived in cramped city apart­ments now live in style. They own a car, a patio and maybe a plastic swimming pool. And they keep dogs.

The suburbs seem a likely place to keep a dog. There is more space and the dog has more opportunity to get outdoors and run off his excess energy. True. The suburban dog does have more space and freedom than his city cousin. Some sub­urban dogs have too much freedom.

Unfortunately, many suburban dog owners mistake the suburbs for the open country. Quarter- and half-acre plots are not farms. Unless the plot has a fence around its perim­eter, the suburban dog strays over the boundary lines and gets into mischief. This is the major problem among suburban dog owners. If a neighbor happens to be a gardener who loves his hobby with a purple passion, the dog owner can expect some hostile sessions when his dog decides to dig or sleep in the neighbor's flower bed.

CANINE DELINQUENTS

The number of canine delinquents in suburbia is steadily increasing. Their owners turn them out several times a day —or what is worse, put them out all day. The dogs are left to their own devices. They band into teams, gangs and packs that roam the neighborhood. All kinds of nuisances are com­mitted by these errant dogs. They run over newly seeded lawns, tree the community cats, urinate on shrubbery and trees, dig in flower beds, chase cars, knock over and root in garbage cans, and engage in various other forms of mischief. Ironically, many of these wayward dogs have been well schooled in basic obedience and are models of deportment when in the house or with their masters.

You cannot expect your dog, no matter how obedient he is, to behave properly when out roaming the neighborhood in company with other dogs. The old saying, "Out of sight, out of mind," is very apropos. Basic obedience is no cure-all. The efficacy of the basic obedience depends on your presence. The commands are control measures, not conscience guides. No dog is going to pause when faced with temptation and say to himself, "No!" If your dog is off your property and spots a female in heat, he's going to run after her, even if it means cornering her in your neighbor's flower bed. Likewise, if you turn your dog outdoors and he sights the neighbor's cat, he'll run her up a tree. When you are present in situations like these, you can bring the dog under control with a stern "No!" When he's out on his own and out of your sight, anything can happen.

Then what's the use of having a dog in the suburbs if you can't let him outside without having to accompany him? There's no getting around it, if you want to avoid having a problem dog and steer clear of the law, you will have to con­trol the dog. And it is possible to control him and still give him the advantages of the outdoors. You do this by making use of the big advantage you have over the city dog owner-space. In short, you either fence the property or build a ken­nel area. By alternating between walks on a leash and free play and exercise in the kennel area, the suburban dog can have a happy environment and stay out of trouble.

HOME KENNELS

The ideal situation would be to enclose the entire property with a four- or five-foot chain-link fence. You would keep other dogs out and your dog would have the freedom of the place. When you are too busy to take him for a walk, you simply turn him outdoors in the enclosure. Later, you can put on his leash and take him for a walk or romp in the fields or woods. But erecting a chain-link fence around a quarter-or half-acre plot is a costly project. Not many suburbanites can afford this kind of a luxury.

Wood-and-wire kennel

There are some satisfactory substitutes, however. One is to build a wood-and-wire kennel area. By using wood and gal­vanized or other treated heavy-gauge wire, you can construct a sturdy and roomy kennel for your dog. Poultry or livestock wire fencing will make a good enclosure when fastened to wooden posts and top and base boards. Most fence or lumber companies carry this type of heavy-gauge wire fencing. Or you can order it from Sears Roebuck and Company or Montgom­ery Ward.

The wood-and-wire kennel needn't take up much space. An area measuring six by twelve feet (and four or five feet high) is adequate. Set the kennel up in a spot that will not be too hot in summer. If you can locate it where it will be partially shaded by trees, so much the better. Also, take care that the kennel is not exposed to the wintry winds. When equipped with a snug doghouse, this wood-and-wire kennel makes an excellent place to keep the suburban dog. You can turn him out for short periods, all day or leave him out overnight. When he's in the kennel, you know that he's out of mischief.

Snow-fence kennel

If you are not handy with took or don't want to spend the time and money in building the wood-and-wire kennel, you can use snow fencing and studded-steel posts. A fifty-foot roll of snow fencing (it usually comes in this size) will make a kennel ten by fifteen feet, or any variation limited to the fifty feet of fencing. This will give your dog one hundred and fifty square feet of space, which is ample room for him. If you use the side of the house or other building as one side of the kennel, you can make the kennel larger. But ten by fifteen feet will do.

Snow fencing, composed of pre-fabricated wood and wire, is relatively inexpensive, costing from $10 on up for a 50-foot roll. Steel posts are available at extra cost. They come in six-, seven- and eight-foot lengths. The snow fencing is made of rough wooden slats fastened together by strands of twisted wire. "Farm" red is the standard color, but white is available at a higher cost. While it is not as sightly as a chain-link or wood-and-wire kennel, the snow fence has the advantage of being semi-permanent or portable. When you want to move the kennel, just unhook the snow fence from the posts, pull up the posts and relocate the kennel.

You can make a gate into the snow-fence kennel by placing two posts about three feet apart and using the fence material that will span this space as a gate. One post is used as a hinge post, the other as the latch post. The three-foot piece of snow fence serving as the gate will swing open or closed on its own wires. It will not work as easily as a gate on hinges and you will have to fasten the bottom of the gate with wire when closed, else the dog can push under it.

Setting up a kennel area may seem like a lot of trouble. But in the long run, it will keep you and the dog out of trouble. A kennel will come in handy if you have a female dog, especially during her heat periods. When she is in heat, put her out in the kennel. While it is true that some desirous and enterprising male may leap over the kennel fence, you will at least know where your female dog is at all times. Keep­ing a female in heat in the house until she gets over her period can be a trying and frustrating experience. You have to watch her all the time and you never know when someone will leave the door open. Once she gets out, she'll be gone. The main problem, then, in raising a dog in the suburbs is the matter of proper control. Granted, it's a big temptation to just turn the dog out when he gives you that "I've got to go" look. But turn your back on this temptation. Take him out on the leash or build him a kennel. By doing this you will avoid ending up with a problem dog and hostile neighbors.

THE COUNTRY DOG

The country dog leads a more natural life than either his city or suburban relatives. He has plenty of space and oppor­tunity to run off energy. Most of the time, the country dog can be turned outdoors with small risk of his getting into trouble. All in all, the country dog enjoys an existence that is fairly close to that of his early ancestors.

But it must not be supposed that all one has to do with the country dog is to turn him out and forget about him. The country dog owner still has responsibilities toward the dog and neighbors. Country dogs should certainly be taught the basic commands. If a country dog is to serve a special purpose on the farm, such as a herd or stock dog, he will need spe­cialized training.

MOLESTING LIVESTOCK

The major source of trouble for the country dog owner is the chasing, injuring or killing of livestock by his dog. Many dogs, since they are fundamentally hunters, take great delight in chasing poultry and livestock. Others make it a more deadly game and injure or kill livestock and poultry, espe­cially sheep. Your country dog must be taught that he cannot molest livestock. Farmers and the law have no sympathy for the problems of an owner of a livestock-killing dog. And the law exacts severe penalties from the dog owner. A full dis­cussion on livestock-killing dogs and the law will be found in Chapter 10.

Training the dog not to molest livestock

When you have taught your dog basic obedience, you can take steps to teach him not to molest poultry or livestock. Prior to this the pup should be kept in a kennel or the house and not allowed to roam the countryside.

Introduce the pup to poultry and livestock while he is on the leash. If you have your own poultry or livestock, so much the better. You can let the pup accompany you while you do your chores. If you don't have any poultry or animals, you will have to get the cooperation of a neighboring farmer in helping you train your pup.

Naturally, when the pup gets near any livestock or poultry, he's going to be curious and playful. But keep him under control and be on the alert for any sudden lunge to grab a chicken or nip at the heels of an animal. The pup may only have playful intentions, but he can inflict serious or mortal injury on poultry. All he has to do is puncture a bird with his teeth and if it happens to be in a vital spot, the bird is in trouble.

By all means, let the pup satisfy his curiosity. He'll only accomplish this when he has had a chance to move close to and sniff the bird or animal. Lead him over to the cow, sheep or horse and let him sniff the animal. If he tries to dash at the animal or begins to bounce around, barking all the while, correct him. This is the time to set the dog straight about livestock. They are his friends and he is not to molest them. Be stern with him.

You will have to work differently when introducing the pup to poultry. Most poultry are very flighty and skittish, especially White Leghorns, which will fly in all directions when disturbed or frightened. And very few of the other poultry breeds will stand still and permit the pup to sniff them. At his approach, they will usually squawk and run off. The best method of bringing the dog and poultry together for the first time is for you to get a bird and bring it to the dog. Give him the command to sit-stay and then let him sniff the bird. Be on the alert for any sudden moves. Also, make sure that you have a tight hold on the bird; if it gets away from you, the dog will be after it before you can issue a repri­mand. Let him smell the bird all over. If he tries to grab or nip the bird, reprimand him with a sharp rap on the nose.

Later, after the dog has been introduced to the bird, you can lead him on the leash around and among the other poul­try. Keep him under control and curb any tendency to run or dash or bark with a jerk on the leash or vocal reprimand. Eventually, the pup will learn to accept the poultry and live­stock. But don't expect this to happen after one or two les­sons; you will have to keep working with the pup. When a chicken can stroll past the pup without his giving chase, you can consider the job done.

Possible encounters with skunks, poisonous snakes and por­cupines are to be expected if the country dog is not confined. There is nothing you can do about them, except keep the dog in a kennel. First aid for your dog when he does meet a skunk, snake or porcupine is given in Chapter 17.

SPECIAL ADVANTAGES OF HOME KENNELS

A kennel, such as those described for the suburban dog, is a good idea in the country. Not so much for keeping the dog confined all of the time, as for special occasions. One of these would be a female in heat. Another would be during the hunting season, especially if you have a hunting dog. There are unscrupulous hunters who will have no conscience twinges after they have stolen your Beagle or Setter. Play it safe; keep the dog in a kennel during the hunting season.

There's no question about the suburbs and country being more suitable places in which to raise a dog than the city. But regardless of the space and freedom these places afford, you are still obligated to keep your dog under control.

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